North Devon Journal, May 1996

Wave Goodbye to Blues

"When I think back on my life, the only time I can ever remember being truly happy was when I was a kid riding the waves." These were the words of oil magnate John Paul Getty, preferring the pleasures of the oceans to all the joys a multi-million pound lifestyle and dysfunctional family could possible provide.

Living in North Devon, one cannot deny the growing popularity of surfing, both as a serious sport and enjoyable pastime.

The activity, both here an abroad, certainly has a splendid history and can count on some very unusual supporters. As far back as 1777, Captain James Cook wrote these words after watching the Polynesian king surfing the Pacific Ocean. "I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea."

It was unfortunate Cook wasn't able to indulge further in the sport as he was killed two years later, ironically by native of Hawaii, perhaps worried he was trying to "drop in" on their wave. Apparently, some people take that sort of thing very seriously.

To cope with this growing popularity, two men in North Devon have set up their own surfing school. Called Surf South West and based at Croyde, the school is run by local surfers Darren Burrett and Justin Hillyer. Both internationally qualified instructors, their British Surfing Association approved school provides experty tuition on all aspects of the sport to cater for both beginners and seasoned professionals.

And for all those wanting to learn, but who don't yet know their tube from their aerial, the lads say you couldn't be in safer hands. "No one is asked to do anything they're not ready or capable of. Everyone has their own rate of progression so the courses are tailored to individual needs," says Darren.

"All the initial lessons take place in waist-deep water with white water waves. The white water waves are the quivalent of the beginners slopes in skiing," he adds.

Darren, originally from Plymouth, has been a surfer for almost 15 years. His first experience riding the waves was in Woolacombe. It was a moment he had never forgotten. "Like a lot of people who first get on a board, the surfing bug hit me straight away," says Darren. "As soon as I stood up on the board, I knew I was hooked."

Since then, he and Justin have surfed their way around the world. In fact, it was in Australia that Darren first started teaching. An Engishman teaching the Aussies to surf? "I had a slight Australian accent so I managed to disguise my Pommie-ness," joked Darren. "But as long as people were getting the correct instruction, they didn't seem to mind."

So from Australia to North Devon. Is there a major difference between the two? "I think we're very lucky in North Devon. When it's good, the beaches around here are as good as anywhere. There are also some beautiful surroundings which add to the whole experience," he says, hoping not to sound like an ageing hippy... but failing miserably.

But what is it about surfing that makes it so appealing? Why are so many people discovering the urge to catch a wave?

"I think it's the fact that you're outdoors, in the sea, where you can forget about everything else. All your domestic worries dissapear when you're out there because you're forcussed on the waves," says Darren.

"The image of the surfer as male with long, blonde hair is definitely changing. You get surfers from all walks of life - bank managers, solicitors, even grandmothers. The sport is certainly shedding its old image," he adds.

Darren and Justin offer training for surf fans regardless of age or gender. They say the emphasis is firmly placed on saftey and fun. "Enjoyment is the key. Surfing is a difficult sport to master but, whatever level you're at, you're bound to have fun. It's a sport for everyone and most groups we teach are evenly split between men and women," says Darren.

"And there's certainly no age restriction. We've even taught a 71 year-old grandmother from the midlands and she stayed in the water longer than many of the younger students!"

"A lot of businesses have taken part in sessions. They tend to enjoy it as it gets them out of the office. It's a healthy way of getting fit without even realising it. We also organise childrens birthday parties, which has proved quite a unique way of celebrating," says Darren.